Which First Lady Wore A $46,000 Inauguration Dress – The Inaugural Gowns Of First Ladies Throughout History

Lauren Kirkbride | November 2, 2024 3:00 am

Ahhh, the Inauguration Day. The pomp and circumstance, the incredible pageantry when a new U.S. President takes their oath of office...it's an event to behold! But there is one special person at center stage that deserves some special attention: the First Lady! To commemorate such a momentous occasion, each First Lady puts equal care and effort into selecting her gown as she does picking who will be leading our great nation for the next years!

From Lady Bird Johnson to Michelle Obama, each woman has taken this opportunity to express themselves through fashion and show us all just how gorgeous they can look during this historic day in American history. It doesn't matter if it's by famous or less-known designers; these ladies made sure to have something stunningly beautiful on their very special night. Read on to learn more about these special gowns that became a part of American history. Which inaugural look is your favorite?

Melania Trump's Dress Is In The Smithsonian

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Photo by Win McNamee/Getty Images

During the 2017 presidential inauguration, Melania Trump wore a dress by designer Hervé Pierre. It is a figure-hugging white gown with a slit skirt and ruffle that wraps around the body. Pierre designed the gown while collaborating with Melania. After Melania wore the dress on January 20, 2017, she gave it to the Smithsonian.

The museum displays the dress in a section titled First Ladies. It explores the changing roles of American first ladies throughout the past 200 years. Melania was both surprised and grateful that her dress had gone on display.

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Jill Biden Wore An Inaugural Outfit That Conveyed "Trust, Confidence, And Stability"

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For her husband Joe Biden's 2021 Presidential Inauguration ceremony, Dr. Jill Biden went with a lovely blue dress and jacket ensemble from Markarian, an American label from designer Alexandra O'Neill.

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The designer said that the outfit used several shades of blue as well as a variety of fabrics in order to "signify trust, confidence, and stability." Due to the unusual circumstance of the global pandemic, Biden paired a matching face mask with her look.

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Hillary Clinton Got Her Gown Before The Election Ended

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Bill Clinton entered his first term in 1993. While he wore a classic black tux, the First Lady Hillary Clinton donned a violet gown. She reached out to one of her favorite, little-known designers, Sarah Phillips. Hillary asked Phillips to send her sketches before Clinton had even won the election.

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The ball gown had an iridescent blue overskirt made from silk mousseline. Sparkling lace decorated long sleeves and a high neckline. Phillips hailed from Arkansas, Bill Clinton's home state, where he had worked as governor. She had help from costume designer Barbara Matera Ltd.

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Jackie Kennedy, The First Lady Of Fashion

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John and Jackie Kennedy appear at the inaugural ball in 1961.
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Jacqueline "Jackie" Kennedy changed fashion as we know it. Instead of opting for detailed, lace-and-crystal clothes, she wore simple, streamlined gowns. Her inaugural ball dress is no exception. It was an off-white chiffon dress with no sleeves and a silk top.

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Designer Ethel Frankau added a twist: a cape. The cape matched the dress and was tied in the front. Like the gown, it included pearl beading. Jackie and Frankau worked on sketches together to design all three of her inauguration dresses--yes, three! One before the inauguration, one during the ceremony, and one for the party.

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Jackie-O Knows How To Serve A Look

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Jackie-O Knows How To Serve A Look
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On May 11, 1962, former First Lady Jackie Kennedy wowed during a dinner in honor of the Minister of State for Cultural Affairs of France, Andre Malroux. Jackie O wore a pale pink silk gown for the engagement, opting to ditch the sleeves and adding elbow-length gloves as an accessory.

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The look is complete with a subtle yet beautiful gold clutch bag, dangling earrings, and an accented clip to hold her hair in an elegant up-do. There's a reason she stands out in this picture!

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Jackie Kennedy In This Black And Yellow Chez Ninon

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Jackie Kennedy In This Black And Yellow Chez Ninon
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On September 19, 1961, Jackie Kennedy once again stepped out looking gorgeous. During the White House state dinner honoring President Manuel Prado of Peru, Jackie wore a black silk velvet and Chinese yellow silk satin evening dress by Chez Ninon, paired with elbow-high gloves and a stunning accent bow on the skirt.

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As of 2001, this particular Jackie O look is actually on display at the "Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years" exhibition at the Costume Institue of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

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Lady Bird Johnson's Dress Represented Hope

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In 1965, Lyndon Johnson became the 36th president of the United States. His First Lady was Claudia "Lady Bird" Johnson. She requested designer John Moore for a yellow satin gown for the inauguration. Lady Bird chose yellow because she saw it as the color of hope; the inauguration took place one year after Kennedy's assassination.

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The understated dress had a high neckline and sleeves. Lady Bird wore long, white gloves that went over her elbows. Instead of a coat, she donned a brown fur shawl.

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Lady Bird Johnson In Red With Multiple Pearl Accessories

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Lady Bird Johnson In Red With Multiple Pearl Accessories
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Before Lyndon B. Johnson's election, Lady Bird Johnson was known for wearing what her husband called "muley" colors, aka browns and grays. Once elected, the former First Lady changed her color palette to include vibrant colors, such as yellows, greens, and the occasional orange.

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Here, she found an even middle ground, going with a wine red evening gown with a delicate accent bow in the middle. It isn't as eye-catching as some of her other gowns, but this is elegant in an entirely different way, especially with the multiple strands of pearls around her neck and think gold bracelet accessory.

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Michelle Obama Promoted An Unknown Designer

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Barak and Michelle Obama attend the 2009 inaugural ball.
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When Barack Obama was inaugurated in 2009, Michelle wore a dress from an unknown designer. Although Jason Wu was not famous at the time, he excelled with her white chiffon gown. The one-shoulder dress was garnished with organza flowers and Swarovski crystals. Her shoes were from Jimmy Choo, and her jewelry was by Loree Rodkin.

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Jason Wu is a Taiwanese-born Canadian and first-generation American citizen. Designing Michelle's gown granted him mainstream success in designing. In 2013, Michelle hired Wu again for her second inaugural gown in an eye-catching red.

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Michelle Obama's Second Dress Was Striking

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Barack Obama and first lady Michelle Obama arrive together for the 2013 Inaugural Ball.
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For Michelle Obama's second inaugural gown, designer Jason Wu opted for a sparkling ruby red. The dress had a cross-halter strap neckline with velvet details. Wu combined it with bracelets by Kimberly McDonald and shoes by Jimmy Choo. Obama had also just cut her stylish bangs.

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In January 2013, the Smithsonian displayed Michelle Obama's second inaugural dress. The gown joined the First Ladies exhibit and celebrated the museum's 50th anniversary. The First Ladies exhibit still exists today and has featured inaugural dresses since 2011.

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Barbara Bush Coined A New Color

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George H.W. and Barbara Bush wave at the crowd of the 1989 inauguration.
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A few years before George Bush entered the White House, George H.W. Bush got inaugurated in 1989. His wife, Barbara Bush, enlisted the help of designer Arnold Scaasi. Throughout his long career, Scaasi had designed dresses for First Ladies like Mamie Eisenhower.

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The dress was called "Barbara Blue" for its two-tone blue hues. The bodice is navy blue velvet, and the skirt is royal blue satin. The sleeves have a classic Princess Diana puff that was popular in the '80s. Designer Judith Leiber made her classic necklace and matching purse.

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Hillary Clinton Wore Her Second Dress To 14 Balls

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President Bill Clinton and wife Hillary stand at an inaugural ball.
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In 1997, Bill Clinton held a record-breaking 14 inaugural balls, the most in American history. First Lady Hillary Clinton wore a dress from the famous designer Oscar de la Renta. For some of the night, she donned a golden cape with the gown as an homage to Jackie Kennedy's fashion.

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Oscar de la Renta created an A-line gown with golden lace. It had long sleeves and a high neckline. Clinton first met the designer when she ran into him at the Kennedy Convention. He said that she was wearing one of his dresses, which she didn't know at the time.

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Grace Coolidge Wore A Top Hat

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Calvin and Grace Coolidge drive with Senator Curtis on the way to the 1925 inauguration
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Calvin Coolidge's wife, Grace, preferred to wear pants and keep her hair short. But she was also known for her lavish outfits. Her inauguration outfit broke boundaries with her feathered top hat. Along with her grey dress, of course.

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Grace Coolidge sported a white, fur-trimmed jacket that matched the hat. She completed the unique look with fitted gloves and a beaded clutch. Coolidge's style has been described as "modern." While in France, she was awarded a gold medal for her fashion sense from Charles Worth of the French garment industry.

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Media Swarmed Over Rosalynn Carter's Dress

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In 1977, Jimmy Carter began his presidency. His First Lady, Eleanor Rosalynn Carter (sometimes just called Rosalynn Carter), wore an elaborate dress. Designer Mary Matise created a gold-trimmed blue chiffon gown. She also donned a gold-and-blue coat over her dress.

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The dress had translucent sleeves and a gold T-shaped neckline. Rosalynn also carried a simple, gold purse by After Five. The news pounced on her dress, discussing the lavishness and symbolism of bringing glamor into the White House. Carter called his wife his "best friend and chief advisor."

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Nancy Reagan's First Gown For The "Most Lavish" Ball

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Ronald and Nancy Reagan dance during the 1981 inauguration.
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The New York Times called Ronald Reagan's inauguration ball the "most lavish" in American history. In 1981, First Lady Nancy Reagan entered the ball in a white gown with rose decorations. The designer, James Galanos, was known to create garments for high-profile customers.

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The one-shoulder gown was made with silk satin, and its designs had white beads and sheaths of lace. Galanos also made the matching white gloves, which went with Ronald Regan's tux shirt and bow. David Evins designed Nancy's white purse, and her jewelry was from Judith Leiber. All are on display in the Smithsonian.

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Nancy's Second Inaugural Gown Took 300 Hours To Make And Cost $46,000

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In 1985, Ronald Reagan was elected president for a second term. For her second inauguration ball, Nancy once again hired designer James Galanos. Her sparkling dress had a bolero-esque and art deco design. Galanos spent 300 hours applying all of the beads by hand and reportedly cost a whopping $46,000.

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Nancy Reagan was known to love handmade clothes, but she also adored high fashion. Her second inaugural dress combined both. It was carefully made with white chiffon and glass beads from Austria and Czechoslovakia. Throughout her life, designer Galanos continued to create dresses for her.

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Nancy Reagan Making History In Red

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If there was one thing former First Lady Nancy Reagan contributed to fashion, it was taking the concept of a simple red dress and making it iconic. While greeting the press on May 7, 1981, she is seen adorning one such red dress. While it might not be simple, Reagan definitely made it a statement piece.

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Complete with puffy shoulder sleeves, a cinched waist, and an accent bow, this red floor-length gown does everything and more to complement the delicate frame of the former First Lady. The press even dubbed her preferred shade "Reagan Red."

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Pat Nixon Went Yellow For Her First Inaugural Dress

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In her apartment, Pat Nixon models the gown that she wore to the Inaugural Ball.
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In 1969, Richard Nixon began his first presidential term. His wife, Thelema "Pat" Nixon, wore a pale yellow gown to the ball. Designer Karen Stark made it with silk satin and embroidered it with silver and gold. The long-sleeved top is encrusted with Austrian crystals.

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Pat also wore matching shoes created by Herbert Levine. They included carvings of her name and the date. She completed the look with white gloves and a yellow purse by Morris Moskowitz. On that night, Richard Nixon said, "When [Pat] gets finished with [the dress], you'll get it at the Smithsonian."

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Laura Bush Represented Her Home State

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The George W. Bush family waves at the crowd during his inauguration.
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George Bush was inaugurated into his first term in 2001. Then, First Lady Laura Bush decided to represent her home state by choosing the Dallas-based designer, Michael Faircloth. Although many First Ladies wear white to the inauguration, Laura donned a fiery red.

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The dress was embroidered with Chantilly lace and red crystals. Underneath was a silk mermaid gown with a scoop neckline and long sleeves. Laura also carried a matching red purse by designer Judith Leiber. She completed the look with a dainty silver choker.

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Laura's Second Inaugural Designer Dressed Many First Ladies

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George and Laura Bush wave at the crowd during the 2005 inauguration.
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In January 2005, George W. Bush went into his second term in office. Oscar de la Renta, who created gowns for many other first ladies such as Hillary Clinton and Jacqueline Kennedy, designed Laura Bush's dress. It was an ice-blue v-neck covered in sparkles.

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The dress had a slit down the middle and long, translucent sleeves. It was heavily embroidered with Austrian and bugle beads. De la Renta chose the color to match Laura's eyes. Throughout the years, Laura Bush wore several of Oscar de la Renta's clothes, even appearing in Vogue.

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Helen Taft Pioneered The Smithsonian's First Lady Exhibit

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Helen Herron Taft, First Lady and Wife of U.S. President Howard Taft, Portrait, circa 1910's
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Helen Taft, the wife of William Howard Taft, encouraged the creation of the First Lady exhibit in the Smithsonian. When curators asked for her to contribute a dress, she donated her 1909 inaugural gown. The white silk chiffon gown had floral embroideries and a train.

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The designs on her dress were a combination of appliqués and rhinestones. Strings of crystals also hung off of the sleeves. The gown had an unusual but stunning square neckline. For accessories, Helen wore long white gloves and a lace choker that matched the dress. Today, the dress appears yellow because it discolored over time.

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Mamie Sparkled During The Second Inauguration

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Mamie Eisenhower poses in her 1957 inaugural gown.
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For Dwight Eisenhower's second inaugural ball, Mamie wore another design from Nettie Rosenstein. Her yellow ballgown had a pretty off-the-shoulder neckline. The taffeta is covered with pearls, lace, crystal drops, and topaz. It is no secret that Mamie loved bling.

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Like the previous inauguration, Mamie customized part of her outfit. This time, she carried a Trifari bag with the letter "M" on one side and the date "1957" on the other. She accessorized her look with an elegant neckline and long, white gloves.

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Lucretia Rudolph Garfield's Inaugural Gown From 1881

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Obviously, fashion has come a long way since Lucretia Rudolph Garfield's time. Her husband, James A. Garfield, was the United States president from March 4, 1881 – September 19, 1881. Needless to say, high necklines, full sleeves, and floor-length gowns were the name for not only the First Lady but women in general.

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But for her inaugural gown, Garfield opted for a fancier take on the typical evening gown, adding in more than one ruffled accent and a coat-type overlay. In 2017, the dress was on display at the James A. Garfield National Historic Site.

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Lucy Webb Hayes' Inaugural Gown In 1877

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Lucy Webb Hayes wore this gown to her husband, Rutherford B. Hayes', inauguration in 1877. Full of ruffles and various patterns, this was more than likely peak, high-end fashion during the time, including the long train and hip enhancers.

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Hand-sewn by Mrs. M. A. Connelly of New York, the old damask and cream satin gown was perfect of Hayes, who, historically, favored more modest clothing that covered her arms, neck, and legs. During her time as First Lady, she was both praised and criticized for her choice of clothing.

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Mary Todd Lincoln's Inaugural Gown In 1861

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Mary Todd Lincoln, 1861 Inaugural Gown
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In 1861, Mary Todd Lincoln wore this full ball gown to her husband's inaugural ball. Complete with a flower sash and crown, Mary Todd was known for her love of clothing and spending more than a few dollars on her extensive wardrobe, much to her husband's displeasure.

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Either way, she stunned during the ball with the off-the-shoulder number, little white gloves, flower accents, and stunning jewelry to complete the ensemble. Needless to say, this type of fashion most likely won't be gracing the White House anytime soon.

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Ida Saxton McKinley In Feathers And Lace

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Ida Saxton McKinley In Feathers And Lace
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Nothing says high fashion, quite like Ida Saxton McKinley striking a pose on this plush chair while wearing layers upon layers of lace and feathers. The former First Lady actually wore this Venetian lace and ivory silk, with gold trim accents to her husband's inaugural ball in 1897.

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It was an intricate work of art. And, no surprise, considering Ida was something of a handicrafter herself. During her time, it's said that Ida crocheted over 4,000 slippers for orphans, friends, and even veterans.

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Caroline Lavinia Scott Harrison Supported Local Businesses

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Mrs. Benjamin Harrison
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To her husband's inaugural ball, former First Lady Caroline Lavinia Scott Harrison wore this stunning Ghormley, Robes et Manteaux gown. With silk procured from New York by the Logan Silk Company, Harrison's entire vision for the gown was based on her husband's America-first economic policy.

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So, she ordered materials domestically, wanting to make sure to support local businesses instead of foreign ones. She even hired Indiana artist Mary Williamson to design the brocaded silk pattern on the dress, a design of burr oak tree leaves.

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Betty Ford Stunned During A Royal Dinner

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During a white-tie dinner at the White House in 1976 with honorary guests Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, former First Lady Betty Ford pulled out what might look like a familiar dress. Designed by Frankie Welch, Ford wore this pale-green sequined chiffon gown by Luis Estevez to more than one state dinner.

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Embroidered with a chrysanthemum pattern and paired with dazzling earrings, this particular dress has since been donated to the Smithsonian National Museum of American History as her inaugural gown, even though Ford didn't necessarily have a typical inauguration.

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Martha Dandridge Custis Washington

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As the first first lady of the nation, there were many challenges for Martha Washington and her husband, George Washington. One thing that she had down pat was her fashion.

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Because she was one of the richest women in that era, she had her pick of the crop when it came to clothes. Martha's descendants have said her "she wore a gown of yellow silk damask with a petticoat of cream silk highlighted with interwoven silver threads."